Your pair of jeans may fit at the waist and hips but still look bad since you got the wrong length of legs for your jeans. It is the most obvious item of clothing not to fail to notice when shopping but it alters how jeans sit, bunch around your ankle or drag along the ground.Learning how to hem jeans by hand gives you a way to correct the length without buying a sewing machine or immediately taking the garment to a tailor.
There’s just a catch; denim is a far less forgiving fabric to work with than, say, a very light cotton or an average trouser fabric. You can end up with several layers or inches stacked up at the old hem; the original thread is often a contrasting topstitch; so more is at work in making a neat result than a quick double-fold and stitch across. The process doesn’t, in the end, particularly complicated though!
The hardest thing you do will actually take place long before you bring needle to denim.
That involves setting the size of the final pant leg, deciding if you want to keep the factory hem or recreate it with new hem finishing, choosing your thread, needles and technique, and figuring out how best to manage the thickness at the side andinseam seams at the hem. For many jeans, it’s certainly worth the trouble to keep that factory finish on your denim. It allows you to chop many inches off of them without looking as if you’ve purchased a whole new pair of trousers. Many sewing instructions would describe this as “shorten without altering the original hem”.
Before You Sew, Decide Which Hem You Want
There are two basic approaches to shortening jeans.
First is to do what you can think of first — rip off the original hem, cut a whole lot of length off of the pants, turn the new raw edge upward and turn the second new hem. Easy to do, but not ideal as it’s not the factory made hem. The Second technique keeps the original hem intact.
What this entails is to not cut off the manufacturer’s hem, but instead, to fold the material below it or fold and sew over the original seam where the original hem lay.
It will be even more appealing with worn out, distressed, faded or bleach splattered old jeans where keeping the original finish adds character to the worn edge, because of its original finish. Traditional methods The existing ways for properly altering jeans’ bottom already includes and describes both possibilities. According to SINGER, for the first and easy option, “You would also be trimming off the previous bottom edge and turning up your jeans for a brand new bottom finished edge”; they list another option where “keeping manufacturer distressed hems”. Let’s keep this for the first attempt!
What You Need to Hem Jeans by Hand
You do not need a large sewing kit. Gather:
- A sharp hand-sewing needle suitable for heavy fabric
- Strong polyester or all-purpose sewing thread
- Matching or closely coordinating thread
- Sewing scissors
- Measuring tape or ruler
- Sewing pins or safety pins
- Fabric marker or chalk
- A thimble
- An iron and ironing surface
What You will Need – 7 How will You Prefer the Repair? The thimble will definitely be a great help if you are working with jeans, as it is not always easy to force your needle through multiple layers with your fingernail alone, and not add in your own tiny hole. If you have a difficult time with your needle then shove it through a good strong needle that has just enough stiffness to not break when you’re going through jeans, but also not so stiff it will not be pushed through denim at an angle and would much rather break.
If you need to replace some threads as this stitch is made you want to get threads similar enough so your machine would not choke as to not push the thread through the material to begin with as the color is less important than ability for that unless of course you choose to make it a focal point of your project.
Step 1: Wash and Dry the Jeans Before Measuring
Don’t decide the final length of a new pair of jeans right when you bought them if you have never washed them according to their labels. Fabric tends to alter slightly when cleaned in the washing machine, and denim is not an exception. If you hem them before they get their normal washing cycle they might alter, and the final result may not end up where you wanted.
After you have washed them and dried them in accordance with the manufacturers instructions, try them on, and take a look at their new length. This is the appropriate time to consider how you typically wear your jeans too; a pair worn with sneakers can have a different final length than a pair worn with boots or heels.
Step 2: Find the Correct Finished Length
This is the stage where patience pays off.
Slip on the jeans you think you’ll most commonly wear them with. Stand naturally, instead of pulling down the legs all of the way down. Fold the extra fabric up until you reach desired length of jeans.
Check both legs from the front and side.
Then stand, sit, and walk around.
A hem that appears correct while standing up may do something entirely different when bending at the knee and sitting. The hem opening may come up further than you predict, especially on a pair of slim or tapered jeans.
Once you’ve attained desired hem length and are happy with how it looks, mark your new hem line.
Don’t assume you’ll only have to adjust one leg an appropriate amount, both legs may need adjusting accordingly.
Step 3: Measure the Amount to Remove
Take the jeans off carefully without losing the fold.
Measure from the current bottom hem up to your desired final length. Make a note of that measurement, and then measure the other leg as well. If the jeans are about 2 inches too long, for instance, you will take approximately 2 inches off the final length of the pants.
You will, however, need to make your measurements on an altered basis if you are working with a jeans original-hem alteration, because the existing hem becomes the new final length of the jeans and will count in your measurements.
This is a step many beginners can miss; if you look for original-hem alteration tutorials, you will usually see that the jeans are folded to the desired length first, and then the existing hem is aligned to that Fold and measurements are taken based on that and the excess length.
Step 4: Choose Between a New Hem and the Original Hem
If original factory appearance is important to you, the original-hem method typically appears more genuine in terms of appearance.
A simple new-hemmed pair of jeans is one in which you cut off the existing hem to your desired length but leave a fold allowance. You then fold the raw edge in and tack it on using hand stitches.
An original hem works differently. You align the original hem with your desired new length and stitch that alteration on above the hem. The remainder of the denim is left inside the leg.
A major benefit of second method is that the bottom edge of the jeans actually appears to be a part of the originally sewn jeans. A disadvantage to this method is that the excess fabric within the leg added extra bulk to the jeans. This added bulk can especially be seen around the side and inseam seams where the fabric from two layers of denim and previous seams overlap with one another and multiple other pieces of fabric. It’s for this reason why original-hems are easiest to alter with limited material to removed.
Step 5: Pin the Fold Carefully
Turn your jeans inside out, then pin your new placement.
Be sure not to use only one or two pins per leg. The stiffness of the denim will allow it to slide under the needle as you sew and can result in an upwardly-sloping hem, or downwardly-sloping hem.
Instead, you want to pin your way around the circumference of each leg.
Verify your fold is balanced from the front, back, and both sides. If you are using your existing hem, make sure the original hem is perfectly level around the leg without twisting.
This is also a good place to have both legs side by side for comparison.
The better job you do of setting your fold prior to sewing, the less adjustment you’ll need after your first few stitches.
Step 6: Press the New Fold
You can also make hand hemming much easier with an iron. Pressing the fold holds the shape of the denim temporarily and establishes a nice guide for your stitches, as well as encouraging the denim to not spring back while you sew. Iron on a setting appropriate to the material and instructions and if you are unsure, test your iron on a discreet area before touching your jeans!
Do not skip this step just because the denim is thick-a nice sharp fold makes a world of difference between a controlable hem and a wobbly one.
For all original-hem alteration, pressing also evens out the raw fabric inside the leg after it has been stitched down.
Step 7: Hand-Sew the Hem
When sewing denim by hand, consistency matters more than speed.
A firm and small backstitch will create a stable seam, while the slip-style or blind hem stitch is helpful when you want less of the stitches to be seen on the outside.
For a visible original-hem modification, lay your stitches along the line directly above the finished hem. Work your way around the leg, one section at a time, rather than trying to push the whole thing through.
Keep your stitches moderately even. There’s no need for “giant” stitches just because denim is hard to get your needle through; large stitches not only create a weaker seam but can also be quite unsightly. On the other hand, tiny stitches will just cause you to take an unnecessarily long time while possibly damaging the material by repeatedly stabbing it within a very narrow window. Just aims for evenly-sized stitches that firmly hold the fold without creating an obvious channel of tiny holes.
Though stitching denim by hand takes longer than it does with a machine, the measuring/folding/placement will be the same.
Step 8: Handle the Thick Seams Differently
While sewing through the largest, flat sections of jean leg fabric isn’t usually too difficult, stitching through the rise-where the inseam and side seam meet-can be a real challenge! This intersection of thick seams means you’re dealing with multiple layers of denim. Rather than power-sewing through a large wad of material with ease, pause and change to hand-stitching using your finger protector as you approach and pass through the most layered area.
A thimble will help to prevent a very sore fingertip.
Another approach is to gently press the seam flat as you approach the area. In a worst case scenario, if the seam is still extremely bulky, examine the hem allowance. Fold much of it upward and outward within the leg to remove at least a part of the bulky excess. Keeping too much of the original allowance bunched inside creates uncomfortable and noticeable lumps around the jean opening.
You need just enough fabric to hold your hemming in place and securely so do not allow more than necessary be rolled up.
Step 9: Finish and Inspect the Hem
Once you have sewn around the entire leg, secure the thread with a firm knot on the inside.
Trim the thread neatly.
Turn the jeans right side out and inspect the finished hem.
Check the following:
- Is the hem level?
- Are both legs the same finished length?
- Is the original hem sitting flat?
- Are there visible puckers?
- Is excess fabric creating an obvious ridge?
- Are the stitches secure?
- Does the hem hang naturally when you walk?
Try the jeans on again with the shoes you normally wear.
This final fitting is not merely cosmetic. It gives you an opportunity to identify a hem that looked correct while lying flat but behaves differently when the garment is worn.
How to Hem Jeans by Hand Without Cutting the Original Hem
Preserving the original hem is particularly useful when the jeans have a distinctive faded edge.
The basic idea is to move that existing edge upward rather than replacing it.
Suppose you want to shorten your jeans by two inches. In that case, you could try folding the material at the desired place so that the previously existing hem is at the desired level and sew the folded part just above the existing one
The outside will look good because the original part is still there and hidden inside
After that, the newly created fold needs to be carefully worked out so that it does not bulge out on the sides of the leg since the amount of material could be significant depending on how much you have to take out. Most of the professional original-hem alterations involve more complex reconstruction of the hem part, but if you do not want to deal with the bulk inside your jeans, the fold method might be perfect for smaller alterations. Various methods can be viewed on sewing resources that describe original-hem alterations.
What If You Need to Remove Several Inches?
A big change requires caution.
Do not want to bunch up lots of extra material into the leg by trying to break a big hem fold into smaller folds, if you have dramatically long pants. This will make an ill-fitting bulky area in the lower leg. In this case, it is better to cut off the big fold and rehem.
Another thing to consider is leg shape. In general, straight jeans are good for making little hem changes. More dramatic flare or taper in the leg can cause loss of desired fullness in the lower leg if the hems are shortened, since the lower leg circumference would vary greatly over the length of the fold being removed. It is often better to take the pants into a professional repair shop for jeans when the pants are expensive, particularly fancy denims, or otherwise exceptionally constructed.
Common Mistakes When Hand-Hemming Jeans
Measuring Only While Standing
A hem that looks perfect while standing may become too short once you sit down or move around. Always test the jeans in normal positions before finalizing the measurement.
Cutting Before Confirming the Length
Once denim has been cut away, you cannot simply restore the original length. Measure twice and cut once.
Using Weak Thread
Ordinary lightweight thread may work for some garments, but jeans experience substantial wear around the hem. Choose thread appropriate for the weight and use of the garment.
Ignoring the Original Seam Construction
The bottom of jeans is rarely just one layer of fabric. Treating it like a lightweight trouser hem can lead to problems at the thickest points.
Making the Hem Too Tight
A hem should secure the fabric, not gather it. If the stitching pulls the denim into small waves, loosen the tension and check the fold.
Forgetting to Check Both Legs
A small difference between the two hems can become obvious once the jeans are worn. Compare measurements carefully before completing the stitching.
Is Hand-Hemming Better Than Using a Sewing Machine?
Neither method is automatically better.
A sewing machine allows one to work faster and achieve more uniform stitches, but it requires a certain setup to tackle a thick denim. SINGER’s recommendations on sewing denim include using a special denim needle and suggest specific stitch settings.
Hand sewing, on the other hand, grants a better opportunity to gain control over the process.
One can move slower on problem spots, inspect the seam more closely, and avoid struggling with a heavy piece of denim under a sewing machine. The downside is that hand sewing is much slower and more physically demanding.
I would recommend hand sewing if there is no necessity to sew a lot of denim pieces, for instance, if one only wants to shorten one pair of jeans. Sewing machines, in their turn, allow to complete the task faster, which is especially important if there is a need to work on several pairs of jeans.
How to Make a Hand-Sewn Jeans Hem Look Professional
A professional-looking alteration is mostly about preparation rather than expensive equipment.
Keep the finished length symmetrical, press the hem before and after sewing, use thread that matches the garment, and sew it in a controlled manner.
The original hem needs special attention since it is the first thing one sees. By keeping the existing hem, ensure that it is placed correctly and falls naturally along the entire perimeter.
In addition, do not rush with the final inspection.
A couple of minutes spent looking at the hem while in a prone position can help identify defects not visible when the garment is laid flat.
When Should You Take Jeans to a Tailor?
Hand hemming can handle most simple alterations, but there are some cases when hiring a tailor is a better option.
It is worth asking for their help if the jeans are expensive, the alteration is a big one, the leg is very tapered or flared, the denim has to be taken apart because of its intricate decorative features or you want to recreate the same pattern as the original.
Also, a professional’s help should be considered in case you feel that cutting and sewing heavy denim is too much for you.
There is no shame in doing it on your own, but denim is not the best material to learn on since mistakes are difficult to take out. It is safer, and probably cheaper in the long run, to experiment on a cheap pair of jeans and leave the nice ones to the experts.
Final Takeaway
Learning how to hem jeans by hand is less about mastering a complicated sewing technique and more about controlling a series of small decisions. The finished length of your jeans will be determined by how long they are when you are wearing them , the fold should be uniform, the thread and needle should match the weight of the denim, and you will need to be patient with the heavy seams.
For jeans that are only slightly too long, I think that a good, worn-in hem is a beautiful option. It will preserve the part of the jeans that has been worn and allow you to easily shorten the length. However, a standard new hem might be a nicer choice if you have to make a major adjustment.
The ideal hand-sewn hem should be barely noticeable. Once you have finished shortening the jeans and the length is perfect, make sure that the stitching is secure and let the jeans hang freely. The hem should be almost invisible, as if the jeans were made that way.
Frequently Asked Questions
1.Can you really hem jeans by hand?
Yes. Jeans can be shortened by hand using a strong needle, suitable thread, and an appropriate hand stitch. The process takes longer than machine sewing, but it is practical for straightforward alterations.
2.What stitch is best for hemming jeans by hand?
A strong backstitch is a practical choice when durability is the priority. If you want the stitches to be less visible, a suitable blind or slip-style hemming stitch can be used, depending on the construction of the hem.
3.Can you hem jeans without cutting them?
Yes. If the jeans only need to be shortened modestly, you can preserve the original hem by folding the excess fabric inside the leg and stitching above the existing finished edge. This leaves the factory hem visible.
4.How do you hem jeans without making them bulky?
Avoid folding more fabric inside the leg than necessary. Large alterations can create excessive bulk, particularly around the inseams and side seams. For substantial shortening, creating a new hem may be cleaner.
5.Do you need a special needle to hand-sew denim?
A strong, sharp needle suitable for heavy fabric makes hand sewing denim easier. A thimble is also useful because multiple layers of denim can require significant pressure.
6.How much should you shorten jeans?
There is no universal measurement, it all depends on the jeans cut, your height, shoe size and how you want them to be. Try them on with the shoes you are planning on wearing, and see how they look and feel.
7.Should jeans be washed before hemming?
If the jeans have not yet been washed, it is a good idea to wash and dry them according to the manufacturer’s instructions before measuring. This will ensure that the jeans are not altered further after the desired length has been reached.
Conclusion
Learning how to hem jeans by hand is a simple way to adjust the length of your favorite pair without needing a sewing machine. With the right measurements, a good needle and thread, and a bit of patience, you can make a decent and durable hem that will look nice and not fray with time. Be it a slight shortening of the jeans or a more significant alteration, careful and consistent stitches will provide the best result.
Therefore, to achieve the most even and thus durable stitches, one has to be careful when measuring the desired length, secure the fabric well, and be consistent with the movement so that the stitches are not too close or too far from each other. Hemming will become a valuable skill for anyone who wants to keep their clothes in good condition and alter the clothes they already have to their liking.
